Arne leading the second pitch of Commitment
(more photos here)
Just got back from a long weekend at Yosemite with my climbing buddy Arne. Pre-kids I used to spend a full week in the Valley each year, but now I’m lucky to get a few days here and there. I’ll take what I can get…
We did a lot of climbing — 28 pitches total — but we stuck to short routes. I haven’t climbed much outside this year and felt a little rusty. Usually it only takes me a day or so to get my confidence back, but this trip I really didn’t feel strong until the last day. Also, any Yosemite route that is 5.9 or hard requires impeccable crack technique and if you don’t get a lot of practice on cracks everything will feel a little harder than the ratings indicate.
Below is our tick list. In addition to the climbing, I managed to squeeze in a hike to Nevada falls on Tuesday morning before heading to the airport. I’ve been experimenting with barefoot-style running and did the hike (about 8.5 miles and 2,000 vertical feet) in my Chacos in under 2 hours.
All in all a great trip — there’s no place on Earth like Yosemite but the older my little girls get the tougher it is to be away from them. Hopefully we can make future trips a family affair!
FRIDAY (arrived late afternoon):
- C.S. Concerto (5.9, 3 pitches) linked to last 3 pitches of After 6 (5.7) — A couple of runouts got our attention. Welcome to Yosemite
- Commitment (5.9, 3 pitches) — One of my favorites at Yosemite. Unfortunately there was a wasp nest right that the crux.
- Bishop’s Terrace (5.8, 2 pitches) — You’d be hard-pressed to find a better 5.8 climb anywhere.
- Church Bowl Tree (5.10b, 1 pitch) — Super-slick feet. I almost got the onsight but fell at the last move.
- Church Bown Lieback (5.8, 1 pitch) — Fun route!
- Nutcracker (5.8, 6 pitches) — The most popular 5.8 at Yosemite. I think there are better routes.
- Nutcracker, Direct Start (5.9, 1 pitch) — Felt way harder than 5.9 to me.
- Nurdle (5.8, 2 pitches)
- Suds (5.9, 1 pitch)
- Golden Needles (5.8, 2 pitch) — A bit dirty but stellar climbing. If this route were in the Valley it would be 5 star.
- Boneheads (5.10b, 1 pitch)
- Babble On (5.10a, 1 pitch) — Very cool roof traverse.
- Knuckleheads (5.10b, 1 pitch)