Trip Report: Yosemite

arne
Arne leading the second pitch of Commitment
(more photos here)

Just got back from a long weekend at Yosemite with my climbing buddy Arne.  Pre-kids I used to spend a full week in the Valley each year, but now I’m lucky to get a few days here and there.  I’ll take what I can get…

We did a lot of climbing — 28 pitches total — but we stuck to short routes.  I haven’t climbed much outside this year and felt a little rusty.  Usually it only takes me a day or so to get my confidence back, but this trip I really didn’t feel strong until the last day.  Also, any Yosemite route that is 5.9 or hard requires impeccable crack technique and if you don’t get a lot of practice on cracks everything will feel a little harder than the ratings indicate. 

Below is our tick list.  In addition to the climbing, I managed to squeeze in a hike to Nevada falls on Tuesday morning before heading to the airport.  I’ve been experimenting with barefoot-style running and did the hike (about 8.5 miles and 2,000 vertical feet) in my Chacos in under 2 hours.

All in all a great trip — there’s no place on Earth like Yosemite but the older my little girls get the tougher it is to be away from them.  Hopefully we can make future trips a family affair!

FRIDAY (arrived late afternoon):

  • C.S. Concerto (5.9, 3 pitches) linked to last 3 pitches of After 6 (5.7) — A couple of runouts got our attention.  Welcome to Yosemite

SATURDAY

  • Commitment (5.9, 3 pitches) — One of my favorites at Yosemite.  Unfortunately there was a wasp nest right that the crux.
  • Bishop’s Terrace (5.8, 2 pitches) — You’d be hard-pressed to find a better 5.8 climb anywhere.
  • Church Bowl Tree (5.10b, 1 pitch) — Super-slick feet.  I almost got the onsight but fell at the last move.
  • Church Bown Lieback (5.8, 1 pitch) — Fun route!

SUNDAY

  • Nutcracker (5.8, 6 pitches) — The most popular 5.8 at Yosemite.  I think there are better routes.
  • Nutcracker, Direct Start (5.9, 1 pitch) — Felt way harder than 5.9 to me.

MONDAY

  • Nurdle (5.8, 2 pitches)
  • Suds (5.9, 1 pitch)
  • Golden Needles (5.8, 2 pitch) — A bit dirty but stellar climbing.  If this route were in the Valley it would be 5 star.
  • Boneheads (5.10b, 1 pitch)
  • Babble On (5.10a, 1 pitch) — Very cool roof traverse.
  • Knuckleheads (5.10b, 1 pitch)
Advertisements

2 thoughts on “Trip Report: Yosemite

  1. Pingback: Trip Report: A Day in the Wichitas | Finding Balance

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s