Tahquitz & Suicide Sampler

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Life is good.  Enjoying perfect weather and a view of Tahquitz after a hard day of climbing.

I had meetings in California this week so I flew in over the weekend for a couple days of climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide Rock.  Tahquitz and Suicide are granite crags that sit across a valley from each other near the town of Idyllwild.  It’s a pretty amazing place – less than an hour drive and 8,000 feet above Palm Springs, the Idyllwild area is a lush alpine forest with temperatures that are often 30+ degrees cooler than the desert below.

As luck would have it, my friend Nick’s parents just bought a cabin at the base of Tahquitz – a perfect base camp for climbing.  We climbed lots of classic routes but it was a bit humbling for me.  The style of climbing is different from what I’ve done recently and the crux moves on the routes we did tended to be awkward and burly – making them hard to onsight.  That’s one of the things I love about rock climbing – there’s always something to learn.

FullSizeRender 4Nick tops out on the stellar second pitch of Super Pooper

Here’s our tick list:

DAY 1 – Suicide Rock

  • Flower of High Rank – Probably the best route of its grade at Suicide (and Tahquitz?).
  • Miscalculation
  • Sundance (3p) – Fun, varied climbing and a little spicy.
  • The Frustration to Aqualung (2p)
  • Insomnia – 5 stars and hard!  We toproped it.

DAY 2 – Tahquitz

  • Stand Up Flake to Super Pooper (4p) – Great route with a hard crux sequence (sandbagged at 5.10a).
  • Lik’en to Lichen – An old, seldom-climbed route that Nick wanted to check out.  Zero stars :(
  • My Pink Half of the Drainpipe – Wow, great route with really unusual interesting movement.
  • Last Grapes



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