Life is good. Enjoying perfect weather and a view of Tahquitz after a hard day of climbing.
I had meetings in California this week so I flew in over the weekend for a couple days of climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide Rock. Tahquitz and Suicide are granite crags that sit across a valley from each other near the town of Idyllwild. It’s a pretty amazing place – less than an hour drive and 8,000 feet above Palm Springs, the Idyllwild area is a lush alpine forest with temperatures that are often 30+ degrees cooler than the desert below.
As luck would have it, my friend Nick’s parents just bought a cabin at the base of Tahquitz – a perfect base camp for climbing. We climbed lots of classic routes but it was a bit humbling for me. The style of climbing is different from what I’ve done recently and the crux moves on the routes we did tended to be awkward and burly – making them hard to onsight. That’s one of the things I love about rock climbing – there’s always something to learn.
Here’s our tick list:
DAY 1 – Suicide Rock
- Flower of High Rank – Probably the best route of its grade at Suicide (and Tahquitz?).
- Sundance (3p) – Fun, varied climbing and a little spicy.
- The Frustration to Aqualung (2p)
- Insomnia – 5 stars and hard! We toproped it.
DAY 2 – Tahquitz
- Stand Up Flake to Super Pooper (4p) – Great route with a hard crux sequence (sandbagged at 5.10a).
- Lik’en to Lichen – An old, seldom-climbed route that Nick wanted to check out. Zero stars :(
- My Pink Half of the Drainpipe – Wow, great route with really unusual interesting movement.
- Last Grapes